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That is so cool! Good luck with your project!!

Great question! The main reason was to guarantee adhesion and a uniform finish once it was all buffed. I wasn't sure if the Duplicolor would adhere properly to the factory poly top coat...so figured it would be much more predictable of a result to just sand it and prime over it.

Thank you for watching and commenting. That's a very good question...and I'm not sure how well I covered the topic in the video. I think it's helpful to perform the test with the fret rocker simply on the basis of finding out whether or not the entire fret board needs to be leveled. If you performed the test and only found a few high frets, it would obviously make more sense to stop there, and just spot level those frets instead of performing a full leveling job. But, if a person was already committed to leveling the entire board, then you are correct, I would just dive right in! Hope that logic makes sense? Thanks again!

Thank you so much!!!

Thank you very much! You'll need 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", and 1/2" tape to do this properly. Also, the black stripes range between .650" to .700" in some areas. Most guys custom cut those pieces or use some other template to create the wider stripes.

I suppose it could act as a barrier in this manner. It does need to be "renewed" once in a while depending on how much playing time you are giving it.

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Makes sense, thanks.

Sure, just make sure it's a good quality lacquer. Avoid the brands like Rustoleum or Krylon clear coats. Those are usually enamels. If you are using the same Duplicolor Perfect Match paints, which are lacquers, then stick with a lacquer product. If you don't, there will likely be some type of reaction.

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thank you! I'll take that into consideration!

Totally a preference. If you like it smoother, then yes, you could sand to 2000 grit.

That's the million dollar question!!!! It's heavily debated in all the online forums & groups. I've built both...basswood and swamp ash. I think I prefer the tone from swamp ash...but as far as the real one is concerned, nobody really knows! Thanks for watching.

@@roguitarrista10 Yes, it’s called “Torch Red”. Pause the frame at 18:24 for a photo of the can. Thanks for watching.

Coats 1-6 weren't mixed in any way...just poured the StewMac lacquer right out of the can. It is labeled as being "ready to use". It wasn't until the final coats that I started mixing down the lacquer with reducer. For those coats, I just mixed down the balance of the can at that point in the spraying process, and kept it stored in the StewMac can. I poured about 100 grams per coat in the gun, then returned any unused portion back into the can. This is what makes working with lacquer different than other automotive type clears. You can store it for quite a long time.

@CoffeeDrinker71 Yeah, saw the first coats were straight from the can and all others were 2:1 thinner. Did it help with the orange peel? Didn't really mention if it did or not. I was wondering how much you mixed up per shoot and was also wondering about storage. You answered that though too so thank you. Built a few guitars and basses so far but used the spray cans from Stew Mac. This is my first attempt at using an air gun. Both nervous and excited. 🤣

@@MichaelArnold2112 Yes, I believe reducing the lacquer to 2:1 mixture really improved the flow and greatly reduced the orange peel in the subsequent coats. If you look at the result after coat #11 at the 21:41 mark in the video, you'll notice how smooth it is starting to lay down. Granted, this was the first coat after performing the 1000 grit wet sanding process just prior to this coat...but I probably could have stopped after the 11th coat because it looked perfect to me.

That is by design. Eddie used pinstripe tape for the small 1/8" stripes. It started peeling off after a short time on tour. It was all removed when he sprayed the red layer a few years later. Since this is a "replica" I simply did what Eddie did.

Very close. Just the modern version of the Non-Fine Tuner Floyd Rose.

Yeah I sold mine many years ago. Wish I still had it though.

Thank you!!!

Thank you so much!

Thank you very much! ...ah yeah, that alternative paint scheme would look pretty cool. I've seen a few purple variants in the past..but I think they were 5150's or Franky's.

Hello! Great questions. In the "tribute" video I wet sanded the base colors to knock down the sharp edges along the stripes. It will remain "dull" as long as you don't buff it out. For that particular project, that was the end goal. I simply wanted to smooth out the edges along the stripes, and remove any "orange peel" texture over the body before applying the Minwax semi-gloss clear. I built that guitar for my buddy, and he wanted some type of protective clear coat on it without being too shiny...so we chose the semi-gloss version since it has a slightly reduced amout of gloss. Eddie's original was never painted with a clear coat, so we were just trying to make it look as close as possible with the additional protection of the clear coat that he wanted. Normally, if you wet sand your paint, and progressively move through the higher level of grits...1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 etc, you can usually follow that up by hand buffing or using a polisher of some type to make it really glossy if that's what you intend to do. But for that particular project the goal was to achieve a satin or semi-gloss texture and stop there. I hope that helps. Best of luck with your project.

@@CoffeeDrinker71Thank you so much for the response! I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I definitely want to follow what you did on your project but was just making sure everything I am doing is correct! 🙏🙏

@@benjaminb_kendama7194 My pleasure! I'm glad I could offer some help. Since we are in the heat of the summer months, be careful when spraying any type of lacquer in high humidity levels, depending on where you live. You need to make sure that the humidity is somewhere in the "comfortable range" of around 65% (or less), otherwise your lacquer paint will "blush" and will need to be fixed. Of course this is assuming that you will be spraying outdoors and not in a climate controlled booth. Lacquer is very a temperamental paint and really needs to be sprayed when humidity is low. ;) Again, best of luck on your project!

@@CoffeeDrinker71thanks for the tip! I really appreciate it again! I’ve been wet sanding the red today just found a good pace to get it down without messing stuff up haha. I started on the back and the red started bleeding onto the white along with the white getting sanded to the point I could see through it. Quite the emotional rollercoaster but the front is looking perfect!

If you have any tips with getting the red out of the white I would love to hear it though!

I agree, the amount of tint was very limited. BTW, I'm a huge fan of your guitars! Hopefully one day I'll have a chance to order one!!!

I personally have never tried this, but I don't see why it couldn't work for that application as well. This is just basic paint scratch removal techniques so I would think it should work fine. Although..."Piano Black" finishes show every single scratch and swirl! ;)

That's really cool that you are attempting your own EVH "DIY" makeover! :) I'm sure you will get it up and running soon! Cheers!

In the first few minutes of the video I walked through the signal chain in the Line 6 Helix "Edit" software. The chain flowed like this: Guitar > Mesa MK IV amp model > tube compressor > Marshall TV cab > stereo fx loop out of Helix into Eventide Micropitch > Keeley Halo Delay > FX loop return back into Helix > into DAW. I hope that helps!

Hello! No, I decided not to sand the base coat. I've read mixed guidance on whether or not it's advisable to do that.

Thank you very much for the kind words! I'm glad you enjoyed it. 😎 Cheers!

@@rtabor5808 “Frets on the Net”.

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thanks I'll check them out.

@@5150rob Thank you so much! I appreciate it! :)

Hahaha! Cool man! Thanks!!!! You should definitely build one!

It's a great sound!!!! That Halo pedal is very unique. I love it!!! Thanks for watching!!!!

The p/n is DFT015. I've actually been able to use this same can for several EVH related projects over the past several years...these two 5150's, then a pair of Bumblebees, plus a few others. It's good stuff. Here is a link too: amzn.to/4cIi9eY

@@CoffeeDrinker71 Thanks for the reply and all the info on your builds got a body and neck on order from Musikraft.

@@rtabor5808 That’s awesome. You will love the products from Musikraft!!! They are top notch!

Thank you very much! At the 00:30 mark, I showed the little amp used...the Yamaha THR10X. I recorded the clips directly into the DAW with that amp,

I guess that was a totally unintentional pun! Hahaha! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers!

Hahaha! Thanks! Yeah, solos....my weak spot! LOL.

Thanks!!

There are templates floating around. But mostly just used the original photos as a reference guide. Thanks for watching.

Thank you!!

I only work on these for my own personal hobby...but thank you for asking. That is a huge compliment. Cheers!

Yeah, I would probably go with the Jescar Super Jumbo's. I don't have the exact measurements of mine handy at the moment, but your hunch is probably right.

​@@CoffeeDrinker71I did see your measurement specs you put up but you said Dunlop 6100 hundred but that's narrower than 6105 spec which is what eddie van Halen used but with stainless steel. The specs you provided seemed to come up closest to 6110 but also 6000 Dunlop spec the stew mac wide highest seemed to match 6100 which is high but narrower. Mine on my Jackson is wider than the 6105 spec on my yamaha. So Brian so mine must be super jumbo. That I know. But jescars super jumbo stainless steel says tallest highest fretwire they sell. But might have to shave down a bit. But thanks Brian. I may order a 6000 at some point and a 6110 just for reference points at some point if I need it.

Hi Rick! Thanks for watching and commenting, as always!! There has been a lot of love in the comments here in favor of that J90C, so I would agree with your assessment as well. Yep, I confirmed it's a J90C...I've had it out of the cavity a few times. Also, there was no mid-boost preamp circuit on the Model 1, 2, or 3....only on the 4, 5 and 6. Those mid-boost circuits required a 3rd pot/knob, so when looking generally at the Model series they are easy to spot! Hope that helps! Cheers!

Thanks for the suggestion. I've seen that name/product floating around in a few painting groups. You'll have to let me know how yours turns out. It's always nice to have other options.

Great question! I really didn't address here in this video because I sprayed both Bee bodies last summer...then took the first body through the SprayMax series/process. Meanwhile this 2nd body just sat for several months until I was able to start the Nitro series. So I can't really give a definitive answer that help in any way. Sorry!!! How long has your body been curing with the base color coats??

@@CoffeeDrinker71 I just finished the last paint coat a week ago. So I know it hasn't been long enough yet. Just don't want to rush it.